FRUITS OF LABOR

Fruition on East 6th Avenue has been hailed by most of the local critics as the best new restaurant in Denver opened within the last year. I haven't eaten out enough to actually know, but Fruition is exceptional and one of the better dining experiences I've had in town. Described as upscale comfort food, the kitchen uses traditional French methods to twist regional American cuisine. The menu changes with the seasons to utilize the freshest ingredients.

The space is quite small, but intimate, comfortable and clean. It feels like someone's home.

The maitre'd and proprietor, Paul, was warm and welcoming, as if he invited us himself. The overall service was very pleasant; our waitress was not the most personable, but professional. The crew was attentive, unobtrusive and timely.

Here's a quick rundown of our meal:

Appetizer: Potato Wrapped Oysters Rockefeller, Lardons, Spinach, Pea Puree--I probably could have eaten 50 of the small, crunchy, briny, sweet packages without hesitation. Especially good, was the pea puree--Just the sweet essence of peas that perfectly describe the season.

Entree 1: Pine nut Crusted Petrale Sole, Braised Baby Artichokes, Lemon-Truffle hollandaise--Perfectly cooked and properly seasoned. The sole was moist and fresh and the hollandaise gave the right amount of acidity to cut through the fish and nuts. It's a bowl-licker.

Entree 2: BBQ Pork Shoulder, Celery Root Slaw, Cornbread Cake--The pork was buttery, smoky, sweet and juicy. The most important element was that the pork was served very, very hot. The flavor of braised/slow cooked meats become muttled if served under temperature, but this was hot to the last bite. The crisp slaw gives a good contrast and reminds you of a North Carolina pork sandwich while the cornbread puts you back in grandma's kitchen. My only complaint was the BBQ sauce tasted a little generic.

Dessert: Chocolate Cupcake Tasting--Three cupcakes with different frostings, vanilla and coffee ice cream and caramel sauce. It was good, but nothing to call home about. The cupcakes would have been better if served warm. The ice cream was subtle--not too sweet, and the hazelnut frosting was the most interesting. It'll satisfy your chocolate urge but nothing orgasmic.

Overall, the meal left something to be desired--in a good way. I want to go back and try every dish. The menu is focused with just a handful of choices per course, which makes me wonder what else is up Alex Seidel's sleeve. Every dish seems refined, balanced, interesting yet very familiar.

But, the question remains: What does Fruition do for Denver? It helps solidify Denver as a culinary town. Nothing revolutionary. Just proper. Denver needs more places like Fruition, where things are done right: A focused menu where everything is cooked perfectly, seasoned properly and served in a comfortable, elegant, professional environment. Denver has so many interesting neighborhoods and organic, homegrown restaurants will make this city pulsate. Less PF Chang's, less Maggianos, less Ruth Chris'. Fruition is not trying too hard, not trying anything crazy -- just creating beautiful plates. It's a steppingstone toward Denver's culinary future.