PERCEPTION

Every time sushi comes up in the coversation there is the battle between Sushi Den and 'your favorite sushi spot'. Many people loathe Sushi Den because of the wait, the unbending reservation policy, the trendiness or whatever beef they have with the reigning sushi champion of Denver. On the other hand, many people love Sushi Den for similar reasons...

The majority of my sushi outings involve Sushi Den. I'm not sure why it's become my default sushi establishment, but much of the reason is the 'quality' or perception of 'quality' associated with the restaurant.

The owners wrote the book on the American sushi process of buying fish from Japan and flying it the same day Stateside to offer the freshest and best ingredients. And thus begins the perception...

Sushi Den may or may not be the best sushi restaurant in Denver, but as long as people say it is, it will be. It's similar to any of your favorite places. You go out to your most frequented establishment and the chef or owner comes over to say, 'hi', and you respond, 'Oh good, you're here. Everything's better when you're here". In actuality, the chef is not doing the cooking and the owner is not doing the serving. The staff is doing the fundamental work. But, if the circumstances make you believe the resturant is better, is it? Yes. Which brings me back to Sushi Den. As long as people believe it's better for one reason or another (mine being the freshness and quality of fish) it will continue to flourish. More business means more turnover means fresher products and better fish. So, coincidentally, the perception of greatness becomes greatness.

Given, you can't always wait an hour or more for a table at Sushi Den, so you go to your other 'favorite sushi spot'. In hand, you make that restaurant busier and hopefully better. So, is Sushi Den's perception of greatness actually making every other sushi restaurant better?

STAPLES

Ever since Duo popped up on the food radar, it's continued to create ripples locally and nationally. From "Best New Restaurant" awards to one of Gourmet's top farm-to-table establishments to Yasmin Lozada-Hissom's recent appearance at the James Beard Foundation's Taste America dinner, Duo is making quite a name for itself--and, rightfully so.

My visit came just a couple weeks after I watched Yasmin, Duo's Pastry Chef, dish up a hundred-plus apple tarts at the Taste America dinner.

Duo charms you from the start. Located in the blooming Highlands neighborhood, the warmth of the restaurant immediately draws you in through its windowed facade. The small space is balanced with mile-high ceilings and divided with a partition made of weathered glass windows. A small bar area flanks the right and an open, glowing kitchen anchors the back. The dining room is intimate without being crowded, with the tall ceilings helping confine your table's conversation to just your table.

The menu changes seasonally to utilize the freshest ingredients. A few weeks into an Autumn menu, Duo featured heavier, rustic, Italian-inspired fare. Our meal began with Gouda and shrimp filled Risotto Fritters and White Bean Spread with grilled toast. The aranchini, whom an Italian would never dream of filling with seafood and cheese, worked wonderfully. Crispy and surprisingly light, the shrimp and tomato-caper sauce battle through the rich Gouda. The warm White Bean Spread, scented with olive oil and paired with end-of-season tomatoes, parsley and grilled bread, was simple and wholesome.

The main course brought us Porter Beer Braised Pork Stew and the night's special, Parmesan Crusted Black Cod. The braised pork was a pick-up-your-bowl-and-lick-the bottom kind of dish. The pork was so tender and moist you would drag a rusty knife over your best friend's throat to get the last bite. The porter makes for an interesting sauce that helps bring an earthiness to the dish. Along with some root vegetables, broccolini and a small side dish of fluffy, crispy potato croquettes, the pork is exceptional. The cod was very similar in composition, but lighter. The moist cod and crispy crust gave a great contrast while the lemony sauce complimented the saltiness of the dish. Sandwiched between crispy watercress and baby carrots, potatoes and onions, it was delicious. Both dishes were cooked exceptionally well with perfect temperatures. We ended our meal with Yasmin's Sticky Toffee Pudding--A molten, spongy bread pudding with delicate flavors of Fall. Not overly sweet, the spiced pudding with toasted pecans and toffee rum sauce was heartwarming.

Overall, the flavors of Duo are bold, yet restrained. The chef has a light hand with the salt and lets the flavors of the season speak for themselves. The dishes focus on just enough flavors and refrain from complication; that is where exceptional food stems from. The Highlands are spoiled for having Duo so close. I would love to live in the area so I could go every week to try every dish and hungover on Sunday's to have brunch. But, it's also special enough to be a destination for those not so close. The menu is affordable, with almost every appetizer and dessert under $8 and most entrees under $20. It's a great place to grab a nice dinner and glass of wine or splurge and celebrate with four courses and a bottle. Considering the food, service and atmosphere, it's a bargain. Duo is another restaurant that should be considered a staple in helping establish this as a serious food town. Add it to your list of places to try and to Denver's culinary blueprint.