STAPLES

Ever since Duo popped up on the food radar, it's continued to create ripples locally and nationally. From "Best New Restaurant" awards to one of Gourmet's top farm-to-table establishments to Yasmin Lozada-Hissom's recent appearance at the James Beard Foundation's Taste America dinner, Duo is making quite a name for itself--and, rightfully so.

My visit came just a couple weeks after I watched Yasmin, Duo's Pastry Chef, dish up a hundred-plus apple tarts at the Taste America dinner.

Duo charms you from the start. Located in the blooming Highlands neighborhood, the warmth of the restaurant immediately draws you in through its windowed facade. The small space is balanced with mile-high ceilings and divided with a partition made of weathered glass windows. A small bar area flanks the right and an open, glowing kitchen anchors the back. The dining room is intimate without being crowded, with the tall ceilings helping confine your table's conversation to just your table.

The menu changes seasonally to utilize the freshest ingredients. A few weeks into an Autumn menu, Duo featured heavier, rustic, Italian-inspired fare. Our meal began with Gouda and shrimp filled Risotto Fritters and White Bean Spread with grilled toast. The aranchini, whom an Italian would never dream of filling with seafood and cheese, worked wonderfully. Crispy and surprisingly light, the shrimp and tomato-caper sauce battle through the rich Gouda. The warm White Bean Spread, scented with olive oil and paired with end-of-season tomatoes, parsley and grilled bread, was simple and wholesome.

The main course brought us Porter Beer Braised Pork Stew and the night's special, Parmesan Crusted Black Cod. The braised pork was a pick-up-your-bowl-and-lick-the bottom kind of dish. The pork was so tender and moist you would drag a rusty knife over your best friend's throat to get the last bite. The porter makes for an interesting sauce that helps bring an earthiness to the dish. Along with some root vegetables, broccolini and a small side dish of fluffy, crispy potato croquettes, the pork is exceptional. The cod was very similar in composition, but lighter. The moist cod and crispy crust gave a great contrast while the lemony sauce complimented the saltiness of the dish. Sandwiched between crispy watercress and baby carrots, potatoes and onions, it was delicious. Both dishes were cooked exceptionally well with perfect temperatures. We ended our meal with Yasmin's Sticky Toffee Pudding--A molten, spongy bread pudding with delicate flavors of Fall. Not overly sweet, the spiced pudding with toasted pecans and toffee rum sauce was heartwarming.

Overall, the flavors of Duo are bold, yet restrained. The chef has a light hand with the salt and lets the flavors of the season speak for themselves. The dishes focus on just enough flavors and refrain from complication; that is where exceptional food stems from. The Highlands are spoiled for having Duo so close. I would love to live in the area so I could go every week to try every dish and hungover on Sunday's to have brunch. But, it's also special enough to be a destination for those not so close. The menu is affordable, with almost every appetizer and dessert under $8 and most entrees under $20. It's a great place to grab a nice dinner and glass of wine or splurge and celebrate with four courses and a bottle. Considering the food, service and atmosphere, it's a bargain. Duo is another restaurant that should be considered a staple in helping establish this as a serious food town. Add it to your list of places to try and to Denver's culinary blueprint.